Use a bolster chisel to press into the angle between the skirting and floor. Hold the straightedge against each crease and cut along it, holding the knife at a slight angle to get a neat finish. When you've laid the whole vinyl sheet, lift the edges and stick them to the sub-floor with double-sided tape or adhesive. Sometimes, it can be a bit of a challenge to lay sheet vinyl flooring in a bathroom.
After all, quite a few of them have architraves and radiator pipes - and there are toilet and basin pedestals to deal with too. It's always a good idea to apply silicone sealant to the edges of your bathroom floor to create a waterproof barrier. Not all vinyl has to be glued to the floor. Heavy duty 'stay flat' vinyl doesn't shrink or lift, so you can lay it without using adhesive.
If you're laying cushioned vinyl, you should glue it around the edges and at joins. Thinner, non-cushioned types need to be stuck down all over. Once you've fitted your vinyl, roll half of it back and apply adhesive to the floor using the type that's supplied or recommended by the manufacturer. Re-position the vinyl and repeat the process for the other half of your room. When it's all back in place, press the vinyl flat with a soft broom. To fit vinyl around your toilet or wash basin pedestal, you'll need to lay it as far as the front of the pedestal, then fold it back on itself.
Use scissors to cut in from the edge in a straight line to the centre of the pedestal. Make a series of cuts in the vinyl around the base of the pedestal until the sheet lies flat. Be careful not to cut too far in, or tear the vinyl. Use a bolster chisel to make a sharp crease in the vinyl all the way round the base of the pedestal. Cut around the crease you've made and carefully trim off each flap of vinyl until it fits. Next, peel back the vinyl, put adhesive on the floor around the pedestal and press it back into place.
You can seal the edges with silicone sealant if you want to. To fit vinyl around a door frame, make a series of vertical cuts to the point where the vinyl meets the floor.
Cut off the excess, but make sure to leave 50mmmm turned up at floor level for more accurate trimming. Press the vinyl into the angle between the door frame and the floor, and cut along the crease. Then cut the vinyl straight across the line of the door so it ends half-way under it. Fit a threshold bar to hold down and protect the edge of the vinyl. To fit vinyl around a pipe, make a straight cut in line with the pipe to the edge of the vinyl. Then make a series of small cuts at the pipe end of the slit until the vinyl lies flat around the pipe.
Trim the slit pieces to get a neat finish. If you're working in a large room, you might have to join two or more sheets to cover the whole floor. Try use sheets from the same roll, as different ones can vary slightly in colour and try not to create a join in the doorway, because this area gets the most wear. If you're joining patterned sheets, you'll need to slide the second sheet along until the pattern matches the first sheet.
If you're finding this difficult, try overlapping the sheets until the pattern matches, and then make a cut through both sheets using a straightedge and a knife. Without moving the sheets, fold back the edges and use double-sided tape or adhesive to secure them to the floor.
Press down firmly with both hands to glue the join. You can start with our easy to follow video guide below. One plus side of gluing down vinyl planks is that it is easier to make a repair later on, as you can pop off a scratched or damaged plank, apply the new adhesive, and pop a new plank in its place. While simple to explain, glue-down vinyl planks require a steady hand and plenty of patience in order to get a clean looking installation, making this option better left to the pros.
Just like any other home project, having the right tools is absolutely essential. Compared to materials like tile and hardwood, vinyl plank installation can be much easier. The first step in installing vinyl plank flooring is figuring out which way the planks should run. Running your vinyl planks along the most prominent wall in the room or in the same direction as the main light source such as a window makes the room feel more open and is aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
If the room is off of a hallway, you may want to keep the boards uniform and running in the same direction as the hallway. Typically if flooring a whole house, you would want the planks to run the length of the house, from the front door toward the back wall.
Measure your planks and the room. Check to make sure that your first and last planks will be appropriate sizes. Some people prefer to sketch out how the layout would look before they get started.
So the first part of the next step is probably the hardest part: waiting. Whether choosing glue-down or floating type vinyl planks, they should be allowed to acclimate inside of your home for at least 48 hours in the space where they are to be installed.
Vinyl planks, along with other types of flooring, can change dimensions slightly depending on the temperature and humidity they are exposed to. If you are only installing vinyl planks in a single room, you will want to install transitions at the doorways. Transition pieces give a clean appearance where one kind of flooring meets with another.
To determine which transition piece will work best for your floor, think about the two kinds of flooring you are joining. If the two kinds of flooring are hard-surface of about the same height, you will want to use a t-mold. If one is lower than the other, a threshold or reducer may be the best option.
Many manufacturers make transition strips that match the flooring in color or style. Typically these are supplied with a molding track, a u-shaped piece of metal that can be cut to the desired length and attached to the subfloor for the transition piece to snap into.
The doorway should be clear of any material above the subfloor in the threshold where you are installing your transition molding track. If your subfloor is concrete, you will need to use a hammer drill with a masonry bit to install the channel into the doorway. For wood subfloors, this piece can be screwed or nailed into place, and reinforced with a silicone adhesive.
With your transition molding track properly installed, the next thing standing between you and your beautiful new flooring are those pesky door jambs. You want to be able to slide your vinyl plank underneath the door jambs a bit in order to get a seamless installation. If you have any trim work like quarter round or shoe molding, start by carefully removing it from your baseboards. Use a putty knife and a pry bar to get behind the trim and then gently pry it off of the baseboards.
Now that the shoe mold trim is off, use a scrap bit of flooring laid directly on top of the subfloor, and mark the jambs to be cut with a carpenter pencil prior to cutting.
This provides a clear line to follow and will help ensure you do not over cut your door jambs. We recommend cutting one and checking it with the product for a clean fit prior to cutting all of your jambs. You should not have to force the floor under the jamb. Make sure your subfloor is clean and any trim work, such as quarter round or shoe molding, has been removed.
Vinyl planks can often be installed directly over existing flooring but make sure to account for your new floor height. Whatever will go under your vinyl plank installation must be pretty smooth. Sand down any high spots and fill in any gaps or irregularities with leveling compound to prevent issues after installation.
Thicker vinyl planks do a better job of hiding imperfections with the subfloor. Thin vinyl planks can telegraph which means the imperfections such as grout lines if going over tile can be seen from where the vinyl planks sink into these variations in height over time. For floating flooring you will want to first begin with a layer of underlayment, running in the same direction as your finished flooring. Unroll the underlayment along the longest wall and cut to fit. The next sheet of underlayment should have a slight overlap to the previous strip.
Many underlayments are self-adhering to create a consistent moisture barrier. Continue until the room is covered, removing excess underlayment from any vents, corners, or edges using a razor knife. Decide which side of the room you are going to start laying planks. Say your room is inches wide and you are using 6-inch wide planks. If you use a full plank for your first row, the last row will be one inch wide.
If you cut two inches off of your first row, your first row will now be four inches wide and the last row will now be three inches wide. This wider last row will look better and will stay in place much better than a skinnier plank. The squaring process for vinyl planks is the same way you square a room before installing tile. Measure the distance between the walls that run parallel with your planks. Take a measurement on both ends.
If these numbers are different, subtract the large number from the small number and then divide by two. With the length of the boards on your first row and this offset amount, you can calculate the angle you need to cut your first row with. Once you know how much you need to cut off in order to make the last row thicker and if the cut needs to be at an angle to account for irregular walls you're ready to make your cut.
Although vinyl planks can usually be scored and snapped, these cuts are typically better made with a table saw or a circular saw. Now that your first piece is properly cut, you are ready to start laying your vinyl planks.
If using a floating floor style vinyl plank, connect another plank into your first plank by engaging the tongue into the groove of the first plank.
Use a tapping block and a rubber mallet to make sure your planks connect properly and are flush. After a tap or two, check to make sure there is not a gap between the boards as even the tiniest hairline gap could cause problems in the next row. Line up one end of the plank flush with the first piece. Repeat the process until you get to the end of your first row.
Once you get to the end of your row, use your tape measure to determine how long your last piece should be. After carefully scoring the finished side of the vinyl plank, flip the board over and pull up on one side of the plank while using your other hand to hold the plank down just after the scored line.
This helps ensure that all the force is directed at the scored portion of the vinyl plank making it easier to snap.
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